Getting to BA
Peter and I decided to take the overnight bus from Puerto Iguazu to Buenos Aires. Something we weren’t really looking forward to because of the length of the journey. 16 hours to be sitting down doesn’t scream JOY! However, even though I spent most of the journey trying to sleep as I suffer from terrible travel sickness, overall it wasn’t as bad as either of us expected. The company we used are called ‘Rio Uruguay’ and our ticket cost about £50 each. There was plenty of space, food, a pillow and blanket provided and the ‘semi-cama’ (part recliner) we booked was quite comfortable. We left at 2pm and arrived in Buenos Aires 7am the next morning.
We had booked an Airbnb in the Retiro area of BA for 6 nights. It was situated in the middle of most of the sites we wanted to see. Some walkable, some reachable by the subway.
On our first full day we visited the area of San Telmo on the hunt for some street culture, art, dance. To be honest we didn’t find much at all. I’m assuming it was so quite due to the time of year but we ended up visiting the Buenos Aires Museum of Modern Art. This cost just under £2 each so in we went. Neither of us were blown away by the exhibitions apart from Tomas Saraceno’s Spider Web Installation which was quite incredible. We entered a blackened room lit only by spotlight which were exhibiting dozens and dozens of spider webs which reached from the floor to the ceiling. I asked the staff how this was made and she explained they left several hundred spiders in this room we were now standing in for six months to create these webs. ‘How to Entangle the Universe in a Spider Web’ was definitely the best thing in the museum.
On Friday we explored the area of Palermo which we reached by the subway. First you have to buy a card and then the journeys. These are really cheap and you only need to buy one card. These cards can be used on buses as well, but the journeys can only be topped up in the underground stations which close at 11pm.
We visited the Argentine Racecourse as well as walking round the park for a while and the beautiful Rose Garden.
Saturday was dedicated to the area of La Boca to see the coloured houses and La Bombanera stadium.
The tickets for the stadium museum and tour were only £10 each! Bargain! We were both really impressed with the tour and our guide Sabrina who translated everything into English for us as we were the only non Spanish speaking visitors in her group. Later we hunted through the shops to find Peter a Boca Juniors top. We managed to get one from the year 1997-1998 for £20. Happy boy below.
Passing by we saw some professional tango dancers performing in nearby restaurants. And Sunday was spent searching for tango classes and Milonga. Separate blog post on Argentine tango coming in the next few days!
Our last full day was spent visiting the Recoleta Cemetery which was recommended to us by fellow travellers. This is a definite must see. There are so many Mausoleums, many which hold full families. A little eerie but very interesting to walk around. It puzzles me why you would want your deceased family member’s coffin on full display to the public but at the same time we wouldn’t have had such a captivating experience if they hadn’t. Some fairly recent coffins and numerous ones that had been there for decades.
It’s safe to say we enjoyed our time in Buenos Aires. The city reminded us of many European cities we’ve visited separately and collectively. This was comforting after the more rustic surroundings of Puerto Iguazu and that infamous bus journey!